A Blog about Wargames and wargamers. Discussion of rule sets, painting techniques, different models, figures, links to manufacturers, reviews of all of the above, and other gamer resources. Not all Gamers, not all modelers - a blend of both! You are at http://tabletopgamer.blogspot.com Your hosts are Bwana Bill, Krazy Keith, and Consul Scipio. Thank you for visiting our little slice of the World Wide Web!

Wednesday, February 22, 2006











The Autoblindas race forward. A 20mm canon and six wheels with light armor! Avanti! Charge the tanks!











The Panzer IIIs of the Deutches Afrika Korps 'stiffen the resolve' of the poorly armed and amored Arieta Division M14/41 tanks.












Lancia da 90/53s gaurd the captured Hurricane IIC. This was a wicked little model to build. Interesting bits and pieces for a start, not to mention that enormous AA/AT gun!
Apparently this was the Italian version of the dreaded German .88 - and it proved effective when it fired!












British Infantry prepare for the armored assault of the Arieta Division, backed up by a platoon of Grant tanks.

The buildings are those mentioned in an earlier post, made by The Miniature Building Authority.

First round of photos from our "Flames of War" game

As promised, here are some shots from our latest game using the "Flames of War" (FoW) rules. FoW is the hottest thing going right now when it comes to wargaming World War II with 15mm miniatures. FoW is a fast paced game that enables you to play out large engagements in a fairly short timeframe. You will be amazed at how quickly you can play out a typical scenario. If you want to learn more about it go to the "Flames of War" link down on the right margin of this page.

In these two photos a company of Italian M14 tanks from the Italian Ariete Armored Division, supported by four German Panzer IIIs, are "squaring off" against a company of M3 Grants from the British 7th Armored Division.












A platoon of Battlefront Miniatures Italian M14/41 tanks protects the objective while a platoon of Autoblindas and a platoon of L6/40 light tanks (also by Flames of War, Battlefront Miniatures) moves forward to death or glory.











Grants of the Desert Rats, 8th British Army supported by an infantry platoon gaurd their objective.

Tuesday, February 21, 2006

Avanti!

Bwana Bill and I played Flames of War last Saturday; another desert battle took place!

This time it was the Italians in the hot-seat against the British 8th Army’s Desert Rats.

I had just barely finished the great little models of the L6/40 light tanks, the M14/41s and the Semoventes, not to mention the Lancia da 90/53 Anti-Aircraft/Tank gun on the back of a truck. In fact the army isn’t really finished to my normal standards, however it was good enough for us to have the opportunity to do something different.

I added 4 Panzer IIIs from the DAK to stiffen the resolve of the Italians.

Bill has some photos, and I’m sure he’ll post them soon, so there is some new eye-candy to look forward to!

Avanti Savoia!!!

Tuesday, February 14, 2006

More Shots From Aberdeen

Today we will get back to looking at photos from our recent trip to the U.S. Army Ordnance Museum in Aberdeen, Maryland. In the workshop/warehouse that we were allowed to see there was a British Crusader Mark III tank and an Italian Semovente Assault Gun. The Crusader Mark III can be identified by the large muzzle brake. The Mark III had a 57mm gun (called 6 pounder by the Brits) whereas its two predecessors had 37mm guns (2 pounder). Both of these vehicles were very common sights during the epic struggle between the British 8th Army and the German Afrika Korps during World War II. Both of them had very recently been restored and they look like they just rolled off the assembly line!


More Shots From Aberdeen (continued)

Here is the Italian Semovente. It looks good, doesn't it? These vehicles carried a 75mm gun and during the North Africa campaign anything with a gun that large commanded a lot of respect. I can not identify the unit markings on this vehicle. If anybody knows please leave a comment.



Friday, February 10, 2006

Whitewash City card-stock models

Okay everybody, let’s take a break from looking at tanks for a while and talk about something else. Lately I have been setting up a new Zulu War scenario for some “The Sword and the Flame” action. I have a scenario description called “the Church.” In this scenario a force composed of British regulars and Boers needs to round up some settlers from their widely dispersed homes and get them into a built-up camp in the middle of the table. Meanwhile the Zulus are entering from various points all round the table creating mayhem. I needed to come up with three rustic looking houses and a small church. I agonized over this for a long time because I did not want to spend much money on them. I knew about the Whitewash City models designed for Wild West gaming, but I never had much success with card-stock models in the past, so I kept on looking and pondering. But then I just decided to give it a try. I didn’t see why these models wouldn’t work in a Zulu War setting. So, I purchased a set that I was able to create myself for only $9.99. I think I got five models all together. That’s pretty cheap! Eric Hotz, the Whitewash City proprietor e-mailed the PDF files to me after he received my payment. Using Eric’s instructions I discovered the correct way to assemble these things. It turned out that it is a lot easier than I thought. My past problems stemmed from the fact that I just did not know what I was doing. The most important thing is using a metal ruler, not only to cut the pieces out, but to score a nice little scratch in the card stock at each spot that needs to be folded. You score the side that will be opposite the direction of the fold. I found that is makes it easy to get all the pieces to fit together nicely. Also, you need to find some cardstock to print the patterns. Eric recommends 110LB cardstock. I had to go to an office supply store to find it. I didn’t buy it there though because they only sell it in large reams. Instead I went to Michael’s craft store and bought some loose white cardstock that they had in their bins. I don’t think that what I ended up with was 110LB; it was probably more like 80LB. The bins at Michael’s were not marked so it was hard to know. Anyway whatever it was that I ended up with, it worked well. You have to run it through color laser jet printer and this paper worked well in an ordinary laser jet. So, I think they turned out pretty nicely. Have a look, this one is called House #2:





Whitewash City Town Church

This one is called the Town Church. The last picture shows another nice feature of these Whitewash City Models. They all come with a floor plan that you can print out and place under the model. That way, if your action moves inside you just pick up the model and play it out on the floor plan.


Thursday, February 09, 2006

Russian T34 cutaway

As I mentioned on Feb 6th, we visited the U.S. Army Ordnance Museum a few days ago. (See Below) Here are a few more pictures from that visit. This is a Soviet T34/76 that has been cut away on the left side so you can see the entire interior. We were lucky to be able to see this, it is in a building that is not open to the public.


T34 close up

Here you can see both the turret and hull a bit better.


T34: views of turret interior and hull interior

Here is a view of both the turret and hull close up.


Monday, February 06, 2006

A Visit to the U.S. Army Ordnance Museum

This past Saturday your blog hosts, Bwana Bill and El Bandito, drove up to the U.S. Army Ordnance Museum in Aberdeen, Maryland. We received an invitation through the Flames of War Northern Virginia Yahoo Web Group. Bob Smart, who is a regular volunteer at the museum invited everyone in the group to Aberdeen for a special tour. About a dozen of us dedicated gamers braved a bad rain storm and took Bob up on his generous invitation. We got to see things that are not normally open to the public. It was a really great opportunity even though the weather was really bad. If you scroll down you will see photos of three tanks that we saw. We saw a lot more of course, and we will post those pictures later. Hopefully all you Tabletop Gamers out there will find them useful in terms of the colors used and the markings.

U.S./British M3 Stuart (Honey)

The M3 Stuart was a speedy and reliable U.S. built tank that was used by both the U.S. and British armies in WWII. The British nicknamed it the "Honey," because they thought it ran like, "a Honey"! This one bears the paint scheme of the British 7th Armored Divison, the "Desert Rats."

German Panzer IV F1

This Panzer IV F1 bears the paint scheme of the German 15th Panzer Divison which was part of Rommel's Afrika Korps.


U.S. M-10 Tank Destroyer

Tuesday, January 31, 2006

New Web Site for "The Sword and the Flame"


All you fans of "The Sword and the Flame" (TSATF) may be interested in knowing that Larry Brom and his daughter Lori have established a new web site for TSATF and their other products. The new web has been aptly named it "Sergeants 3." I had to chuckle when I saw this name for the first time because I recognized it immediately as a reference to "Gunga Din," the greatest movie classic on the TSATF era. Check out the web site here: http://www.sergeants3.com/

Tally Ho,
Bwana Bill

Friday, January 27, 2006

Historical Miniature Gamer Magazine




















There is a new publication out for miniature wargamers. It's called "Historical Miniature Gamer Magazine." The magazine is a result of the merger of two older magazines, "The Courier" and "MWAN." I encourage everyone to support the hobby by looking for it at your local gaming shop. If you don't have one, you might want to consider ordering it at: http://www.hmgmagazine.com.
And while you are at it, check out the article in Issue 4, page 28, called "A Little Story Goes a Long Way." It is a very nice piece by Chuck Turnitsa on how to weave a storyline into a game scenario. Best of all, the photos that accompany the article were produced by my son Andrew. He signed up to play in one of Chuck Turnitsa's games called "Springtime in the Sudan" at Historicon 2005. Chuck is a great game master and Andrew said it was the best game scenario he had ever seen. (See Andrew's" After Action Report in our August 2005 Archives.) Chuck saw that Andrew was taking pictures of the action and asked for copies. Little did he know that they would be used in a magazine article. I hope you get a chance to see the magazine some time.

Happy Hunting,
Bwana Bill

Wednesday, January 25, 2006

A History of "The Sword and the Flame"


Bwana Bill found this article by Larry Brom, the author of "The Sword and the Flame" and decided to share it with everyone. As you may or may not know, "The Sword and the Flame" is the premier ruleset for miniature wargaming in the Victorian Era. It has gone down in history as perhaps the best set of rules for playability and realistic feel. It has a very strong following. If you don't believe me then just walk through any of the "colonial rooms" at any HMGS convention. This article is a bit long, but please bear with it, you will get some very interesting insights into the entire topic of designing rules. Here it is:

I became very interested in Colonial gaming in the early 1960's with the advent of Holgar Ericson's 25mm painted (not very well) SAE (South African Engineers) war game figures. I made the discovery of these "gems" in a toy store in NC when I went in to purchase some doll furniture for one of my daughter's birthday. Those amazing figures - resplendent in their orange boxes (about 16 or 17 infantry figures to a box) and costing about $2.50 per box, almost bowled me over. Strangely, this store in North Carolina had among their sets of mainly ACW troops, one box of British Colonials in scarlet tunics and white pith helmets, and 4 boxes of charging Zulu warriors. These five boxes were the start of this whole Colonial madness. (By the way, I did get the doll furniture too, for those of you who were wondering but, I can't recall the color or price!)

I now had the figures and the interest, but ahh, the rules.

I had been a subscriber to Jack Scruby's publications with many home grown rules and game concepts and in 1965 joined Doug Johnson's Colonial Society Bulletin (now Savage and Soldier) that offered additional colonial gaming ideas. To this point the only published set of gaming rules I had ever seen was a reprint of H.G.Wells' Little Wars circa 1913. Then, in the late '60's, I came across (whether in a magazine or a booklet) a set of Colonial Game Rules from England. I have no idea what they were titled but they were a well-crafted little set in the classic style of British game rules of that era. I had acquired more colonial figures by this time so I coerced my one gaming friend into having a go at colonial gaming. We eagerly played 4 or 5 games with this wonderful new rule set, having great fun but then realized that neither of us wanted to be the native force ! Where was the challenge ? Once the forces of the Empire were formed and ready and the Dervish or Zulus got in range, it was all over. Historic, but discouraging! No wonder no one played "colonials", no one was doing rules, and there weren't many figures available. Shortly thereafter, my friend moved out of the area and with no one to game with I concentrated on building more mainstream armies; ACW, Napoleonic and Franco-Prussian, and developing my own rules for each period.

It was now the early 1970's and more and more rule sets for miniature war gaming were available. Most of these were from Britain and a few from the U.S. (the ones I knew of). So I purchased a goodly number, played games with a few, and read all of them. Slowly, in my view, it became apparent that something was lacking . But what? Most of these rules were well crafted, offered some interesting mechanics (like "saving throws", which to this day still mystify me), introduced morale, some form of command control or influence, utilized masses of modifiers and myriads of other concepts to make table top games more "realistic".

Then came the revelation. I wasn't having any fun!! I was too busy with the game mechanics, thumbing through pages and cross referencing chart A.1 with C.2-e. Then and there I decided, no more. I would design my own rules for my own enjoyment. I would go back to my first love, British Colonials. I had small armies - all I needed were some rules and since I had been doing home grown versions for some time, I commenced.

All the rules I was aware of, and my own that I had written, were subjected to serious scrutiny based on what I thought I wanted to do with miniature painted military figures on a game table as a hobby and to have some fun. After some months, I settled on the five things I desired in a set of rules that in my opinion did not exist in the rules I knew of in the early '70's. Simply put, these factors were Enjoyment, Playability, Drama, Excitement and Historical Flavor.

Curiously, after I pinned my quest down to these issues and went back and scanned all the rules I was aware of, none of them made any reference in their Introductions or Designer Notes to these factors (and most of today's rule sets don't either). At that point, I determined I was out of the mainstream of miniature gaming and always would be. So, I could just design rules for myself using the above criteria, and relax and enjoy the hobby

Early in 1978, S. Craig Taylor contacted me (he was with Heritage Models in Dallas at that time) about the possibility of doing an introductory set of game rules for the Colonial era to be issued with miniature figure sets for the same period. After some more phone and letter communication, in June of 1978 I signed an original agreement and started on the rules; sometime between this date and the actual release of the rules in 1979, Taylor ended up with Yaquinto Games in Dallas.
Because these rules were designed 20 years ago, I would be hard pressed to share the exact reasoning and thought processes involved in the complete creation of the rules as they finally evolved. Other than always keeping my five main considerations regarding gaming rules uppermost in the development of the overall concept, I will highlight three issues I was determined to address with this, my first published rules attempt; 1) alternate movement (you move, I move) and firing (you fire, I fire), 2) excitement of hand-to-hand combat (most games didn't have it) and 3) measured move distances, i.e. (infantry move 6", cavalry 12", etc.)

I knew from the start there had to be Random Movement in some form or the other. Most games at that time did alternate movement. How wonderfully choreographed, while you are moving your units I leisurely watch every troop disposition and calmly plan every counter move I will make when it's my turn. No surprises, no hurried response from me and no excitement! I toyed with a number of techniques; How about an initiative roll (quite common now, but not in the '70's), high roll moves first ? Maybe not only high die moving first but actually moving that number of units? Make up "movement" cards by writing the name of each player's units on an individual card, shuffling them in a deck, turning them over, flipping the top card and moving that unit. This was the procedure I was going to use when one of my daughters asked, "Dad, instead of going to all that trouble, why don't you just use a deck of cards"? Now, I'm no fool, I know a brilliant idea when I hear it, and so my famous, "random move card innovation" was born! And it still exists today in many, many successful forms thanks to a young girl's common sense. The card deck also addressed and answered the random firing issue - same technique, same randomness. I was well on my way to the rules concept I wanted.

I have always believed that the most exciting moments in any wargame are, and should be, the hand-to-hand combats. These are the culminations of all our planning, maneuvering and evolutions on the table top. To close with the enemy, drive him from his positions and exert our moral superiority over his forces and win the day. The dullest close-in-combats I have ever participated in, or seen, in the past (and even today), are those where wonderfully painted figures or units with colors flapping in the breeze close with an enemy with shouts and screams, bayonets flashing, then comes a halt to resolve the combat phase which usually goes something like this; count the number of figures or units, consult the charts for point values, calculate a dozen plus or minus modifiers, eventually come up with a number value, then each player rolls one multi-sided die and a high total number wins the melee' with one die roll!! Where is the suspense, where is the drama? There is none! Any game system I have ever designed settles close-combat ultimately by pitting figure against figure or stand against stand and opposing players roll six-sided dice with simple modifiers and the high total wins; this is for each pair of opponents. A lot of die rolling, I know, but this is a contrived game mechanic to accomplish one thing - excitement. In our hobby of gaming with miniature figures we are pitting our skill, concepts, knowledge and luck against an opponent in simulated combat on a table top. My theory of eye-ball to eye-ball confrontation by rolling as many dice as we can for individual combat resolution is the closest we civilized beings will ever come to actually crossing swords, bayonets or tomahawks. And talk about suspense, drama and excitement , at any convention , anywhere, if all of a sudden one game table erupts in loud cheers, groans and finally exultation, the high probability is that a melee matching man for man or stand for stand was just culminated. I know because that's what happens at my games and I will guarantee it !

Measured move distances are probably the strangest aspect of gaming rules that we have ever embraced. The idea that two armies or forces on any given table top would always all move at exact precise distances is, and always has been, incredible to me. I won't even address historic justification that this is a fantasy, but merely put the issue into the framework of wargaming. Of course, control freaks love measured distances. It is absolutely wonderful during a game to have enemy cavalry on your flank and by firing a battery at them (you had to measure the range, of course) you know they are 48" away. Since they are cavalry in line and move 12", you smugly know that you have 4 turns to prepare for their attempt at outflanking you. What an exciting challenge! No risk, no drama, and it's a piece of cake. But not for me! I did, and still do, favor some form of random move distances in all the games I design and play to offset this artificial concept.

Once I had incorporated these major issues into the rules system I was formulating, I was close to completing the first draft of the rules. What remained was the tedious detail, formatting, and integration of all the charts and other necessary minutiae that encompass the creation of a workable, playable rules system that reflects a designers vision of battle in a particular historical period. Through all these phases of fashioning the rules framework are the endless and repetitive play-tests, play-tests, and more play-tests. This is the key to a workable, playable set of rules. And the correct group of play-testers is essential. I was extremely fortunate to have the Jackson, MS. War Game Society at my beck and call (ha!) This group was the most stubborn, opinionated, argumentative gathering of gamers the world has ever known and could tear apart any set of rules in two turns or less but, if you could hang in there with them, their revisions and suggestions were almost magic.

The first rough manuscript was submitted to the rules editor July 3, 1978 for his review. After lengthy dialogues between us, a 2nd draft was submitted August 28, 1978. The 3rd, and final, rules draft was sent to Yaquinto on January 22nd, (shades of Ishlandwana) 1979. Sometime that summer the rules were produced and released to the gaming community.

If you have stayed with me through all of this, maybe you have a feeling of how and why I created The Sword and the Flame rules. I have always been very pleased with the mostly positive response to them and appreciative of all of you stalwart gamers who were willing to take a chance on a rogue set of rules and played, endorsed and enjoyed them through the years. You realize, of course, that if you read this article, play Colonial games and embrace a slightly different approach to gaming, you are a renegade, an outlaw and outside the "main stream" of miniature war gaming. But have courage, my comrades, we are a force to be reckoned with and our numbers are growing. So, roll the dice, randomly move, and enjoy yourselves, the game has just begun.
- Larry Brom

Tuesday, January 17, 2006

Rubber Scenery for Gaming

I went to Fall In, the HMGS East gaming convention in Gettysburg. In the dealer hall I came across a couple of gents selling rubber scenery. Yes, that's right, rubber! Try to imagine something that looks like those freaky rubber masks that people wear for Halloween and you will know what I mean. This is basically the same thing except the features are buildings, ground, foliage, trees, crops, etc. They are actually quite amazing for their detailed and realistic appearance. I saw quite a large variety of things for sale. They had scenery for 15mm, 25mm and also 6mm. There were little diorama sets like the ones I bought, and also individual buildings. Apparently they come from a company in Australia called Miniature World Maker. I think the gents I bought them from are a U.S. distributer. I'm sorry I don't have their names. I am hoping they will be back for the Cold Wars convention in March. Anyway, take a look at these pictures. This one is a 15mm set with several types of cultivated fields. Scroll on down to see a few more pictures.
Happy gaming,
Bwana Bill


Conforms to other terrain

You can lay these rubber scenery things over other terrain pieces and the conform to them because of the flexibility of the rubber.

Rubber Farmstead

I bought this little farmstead because it looked perfect for gaming the Eastern Front in 15mm. I think it looks very authentic.