I've said it before, and for any new folks, I'll say it again - I am not much on strategy or tactics. Unfortunately, though we love Flames of War (FoW), we don't get to play very often. If I recall correctly, within our little group, Consul Scipio and I were the last to play, and most recently - and that was in a tournament at Fall In. (Fall In, by the way, was an awesome convention, lots of fun, good friends, surprisingly good food, and more games than you can shake a bag of die at!) I believe my last game, prior to the tournament, was nearly two years ago. Yup. Been a day or three!
With that in mind, and given the fact that real life and online game addictions keep me focused on things not on the tabletop, I have trouble remembering the basic rules - forget about all the special rules, scenarios, and scenario special rules!
Our friends down under at Battlefront (New Zealand, not Oz!) have released a compendium of special rules for each army in the mid to late war range, called "Das Book". Included in this small tome are all the charts for the arms and equipment of each army, as well as all the missions and mission special rules!
One thing that I have not tried yet is the "Total War" rules. These are games from 3000 points and up! Amazing!!! I can see dozens of tanks and hundreds of infantry moving across a table, ready to smash into their opponents!
I call "Das Book" a bargain at $10.00 (U.S.)!
Once, long ago, an old soldier told me that "plagiarism is the highest form of a compliment" - or something to that effect. Therefore, I present to you, directly from the FoW Web site - copied from the back cover of "Das Book" - an overview by the lads in New Zealand! If you want to read it and get a view of the book and all the great charts, you can go here.
Oh! And please tell me I'm not the only one that doesn't get the "Das Boot" reference? ;)
"Das Book is the Flames of War field manual for the consummate WWII general. With all the tools and tactics you need to play a one on one engagement with a friend or enter the tournament arena and destroy your opponent’s forces. Know your enemies strengths and weaknesses, understand the missions and objectives, learn how to use the terrain and fortifications of the battlefield to your armies best advantage.
Compiled from across the Flames Of War book range, Das Book includes:
- Nine Combat Missions: Free-For-All, Encounter, No Retreat, Fighting Withdrawal, Breakthrough, The Cauldron, Roadblock, Hasty Assault, and Breakout.
- All mission special rules.
- Late-war Airborne Assault Special Rules and Mission.
- Amphibious Assault Rules and Mission.
- Bocage Rules.
- River Crossing Rules and Mission.
- Fortification Rules, with updated bunker rules and two Fortification missions, Trench Fight and The Big Push.
- Street Fighting Rules and Mission.
- Complete Mid and Late-war Arsenals for all of the major forces."
So what's the bottom line? In one small book, you have all the information you need, from all of the books - mid-war to late war - to play any era of game you like, save the new early war games! That saves having to tote around 3-5 larger books!
Like I said, at ten bucks "Das Book" is a bargain!
Showing posts with label Wargaming. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wargaming. Show all posts
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Wings of War
This afternoon, Bwana Bill, Orkmeister Karl, Andy, and I had the opportunity to have a little "dad" (and not so dad!) time. Bwana had the World War I version of Wings of War, and has purchased a lovely array of their models. We sat down and ran through about five games in four hours. Amazing!!!
The game is played entirely with cards - unless you choose to purchase the lovely plane models (pre-painted). There are NO dice in the game. You select three moves (left turn, right turn, sharp right [for rotary engine aircraft!], straight, climb, or Immelman) and that is what you do during your turn. Each card represents a "phase". During each phase, you select your card, lay it down, move your aircraft, and then check range and arc of fire to any nearby opponents.
We played about 3 or 4 games of standard fighter scenarios - first the two "newbs" played each other, then all four of us played as wingman - two man teams.
I really enjoyed the game, as it is very quick and easy to learn and play - and as always, my eyes are drawn to well painted models - especially if I don't have to paint them!
In two scenarios, we play two fighters attacking a fighter, which was escorting a two-seater reconnaissance or light bomber aircraft. The objective for the fighter team was to stop the larger aircraft from getting to their airdrome and taking photos.
That was interesting - the larger aircraft, being two-seaters, have a rear gunner - therefore, they "sting" from the front (maybe - depending on the aircraft) and the rear.
All in all, we had a great time, and then got to have a quick gander at Orkmeisters scenario books for Kreta. Fallschirmjagers coming to a gaming table near you in the near future!!!
Monday, November 30, 2009
The Raid
The fight between the prisoners began innocently enough. A “Tommy” was brewing up a bit of tea for his mates when another group of Tommies, bored with the prison routine decided to get up a football match. Unfortunately, what appeared to be a bad kick, sent the ball squarely into the tea kettle, with predictable results. The two groups clashed, forty or so prisoners, punching, kicking, and shouting epithets, and drawing the attention of the camp guards.
Shouts of “Fermo!” erupted from the Italian guards, as they waded into the unruly mob, rifles swinging.
Long Range Desert Group Leftenant Nigel Smythe-Clyde and Sergeant “Jock” Andrews slipped quickly under the fence and into the desert as the sun began to set, whispering a word of thanks to the lads in the camp for the distraction they had provided. With the light fading and the heat of the day dropping, the two survivors of the ill-fated raid on a Duetche Afrika Korps (DAK) supply dump began the long trek to freedom, hoping to fight again another day.
Smythe-Clyde could not help but relive the moments leading up to their capture, as he and “Jock” moved from cover to cover as best they could in the bleak desert terrain.
The raid began with two teams of LRDG trucks and jeeps, carrying a lone S.A.S. team, surprising the drowsy guards at the DAK supply depot. The initial explosion from the S.A.S. team's demolition charges, or "Lewes Bombs", destroyed a pile of fuel drums, sending flames high into the gloaming sky.
Smythe-Clyde’s team raced past a lone Italian Stuka, hosing it with tracer fire as they went. Their route took them between three tasty targets, and their combined fire destroyed all that they aimed at, sending exploding ordinance arcing into the sky, narrowly missing their vehicles.
With the flames settling down to a steady burn, it was time to leave. Having achieved four of five of their intended objectives, it was time to beat a hasty retreat before the alerted enemy arrived.
The other LRDG team commander swept in and picked up the S.A.S. team and headed for their planned escape route, as the roar of engines and a plume of dust announced the arrival of a group of unhappy DAK soldiers. Watching their precious supplies go up in flames put them in a decidedly foul mood.
The DAK heavy machine gun unit leapt out of their Krupps trucks and set up their weapons, intent on stopping the "Tommies" from escaping. As Smythe-Clyde’s team began turning their vehicles around to make good their escape, the DAK HMG teams opened fire, destroying every truck in Smythe Clyde’s team. Two men ran towards his jeep as he began to accelerate away from the killing zone, he nudged “Jock”, who slewed ‘round, braking and accelerating, then braking again as he neared the survivors. The two troopers jumped on board as “Jock” stood on the gas pedal, pumped the clutch and sent the jeep careening towards the other LRDG team’s location.
As they drove, the soldiers could not take time to reflect on their grievous losses, instead focusing on getting clear of the area, hoping to fade into the desert as dusk approached.
A rumbling in the distance announced the approach of another enemy unit. Drivers pushed their machines to the limits as they negotiated the unfriendly, yet familiar desert terrain.
Ahead of the escaping LRDG, a DAK Panzergrenadier platoon leapt out of their trucks and hustled into position, hoping to block the oncoming juggernaut with a wall of lethal lead.
The LRDG teams approached a route they had reconnoitered earlier around a patch of nearly impassable marsh, filled soft sand, when a sharp-eyed gunner spotted the Panzergrenadiers and opened fire. At nearly the same instance, every gunner on the remaining trucks and jeeps sent a fiery hail of tracer-laden machine gun fire into the scrambling grenadiers. Bullets struck flesh and bone with merciless abandon.
As they eased past the marshy area, they could hear the cries of the wounded and dying. There was no return fire. Smythe-Clyde allowed himself the slightest grin, hoping that this encounter was a portent of their impending escape.
The last gleam of the desert sun disappeared as the survivors pushed past the salt marsh and continued towards a wadi, which they hoped would shield them from enemy eyes and retribution.
As darkness deepened, the teams were forced to slow their vehicles, for fear of becoming stuck or running into an enemy position. Smythe-Clyde and his comrades pushed on, relying on the cover of darkness and what speed they could maintain to cover their escape. He could just make out the entrance to the wadi they sought, slightly illuminated by the rising moon. If only their luck would hold a bit longer! They were in sight of safety!
Suddenly another sound issued from the night. Again, sounds of engines, but this time mixed with the unmistakable sounds of tracks clanking across the desert floor.
Smythe-Clyde took a deep breath and said a quick gallows humor prayer,”For what we are about to receive, we give thee thanks!”
Two SdKfz-231 armored cars appeared like ghosts out of the darkness. They opened fire on the escaping LRDG teams, missing all but one truck. The team from the stricken Chevy leapt to safety, climbing aboard another vehicle.
One of the “acht-rad”, or eight-wheeled armored cars was sitting directly in the entrance of the wadi, nearly blocking the escape route. Engines roared as the commander saw their only hope for escape slipping away. He shouted his command, “Get past ‘em, go, go, go!! Into the wadi, move it!.”
The other armored car was on their right hand side, outside the wadi. If they were quick enough, and lucky with their shots, they might be able to bail the crew of the one armored car out, and dodge the fire of the second by entering the wadi.
Smythe-Clyde ignored the command to enter the wadi, instead ordering “Jock” to slide past the second armored car while it was pre-occupied with the other team.
As he glanced back, he could just make out the flashes of fire from HMGs. He wondered if it were the same lot that had killed most of his team. To their side, he could see sporadic fire, apparently from another panzergrenadier platoon.
The other LRDG team commander and his trucks entered the wadi and raked the side of the armored car, unfortunately to little effect.
Then, with a lurch, Smythe-Clyde’s jeep came to a bone-jarring halt and burst into flames. He and “Jock” were both thrown from the vehicle. In the flames, he could just make out the team he and “Jock” had rescued, apparently dead from machine gun or cannon fire. Smythe-Clyde and “Jock” leaped to their feet and ran onward, hoping to escape in the darkness.
Inside the wadi the other LRDG team’s luck ran out. With their vehicles destroyed by HMG and 20mm cannon fire, three surviving teams attempted to assault the armored car in the wadi. A series of rushes and assaults using sticky-bombs failed to produce results, and the return fire from the armored car killed the remaining men.
The clank of tank treads on desert track grew noticeably louder, and then ominously stopped. “Jock” and Smyth-Clyde looked at each other and slowly stood, throwing their weapons and Arabic headgear to the ground. Ahead of them, five Panzer Mark III “Specials” loomed, all guns trained on the two survivors. Behind them, the turret from the armored car swung around to cover them. A hatch opened in the lead Panzer, and the tank commander climbed out, motioning with a raised MP-40 for the pair to approach.
As they walked cautiously up to the Hauptmann, they heard in surprisingly clear and nearly unaccented English, “Welcome into the “bag” Tommy. Cigarette?”
Shouts of “Fermo!” erupted from the Italian guards, as they waded into the unruly mob, rifles swinging.
Long Range Desert Group Leftenant Nigel Smythe-Clyde and Sergeant “Jock” Andrews slipped quickly under the fence and into the desert as the sun began to set, whispering a word of thanks to the lads in the camp for the distraction they had provided. With the light fading and the heat of the day dropping, the two survivors of the ill-fated raid on a Duetche Afrika Korps (DAK) supply dump began the long trek to freedom, hoping to fight again another day.
Smythe-Clyde could not help but relive the moments leading up to their capture, as he and “Jock” moved from cover to cover as best they could in the bleak desert terrain.
The raid began with two teams of LRDG trucks and jeeps, carrying a lone S.A.S. team, surprising the drowsy guards at the DAK supply depot. The initial explosion from the S.A.S. team's demolition charges, or "Lewes Bombs", destroyed a pile of fuel drums, sending flames high into the gloaming sky.
Smythe-Clyde’s team raced past a lone Italian Stuka, hosing it with tracer fire as they went. Their route took them between three tasty targets, and their combined fire destroyed all that they aimed at, sending exploding ordinance arcing into the sky, narrowly missing their vehicles.
With the flames settling down to a steady burn, it was time to leave. Having achieved four of five of their intended objectives, it was time to beat a hasty retreat before the alerted enemy arrived.
The other LRDG team commander swept in and picked up the S.A.S. team and headed for their planned escape route, as the roar of engines and a plume of dust announced the arrival of a group of unhappy DAK soldiers. Watching their precious supplies go up in flames put them in a decidedly foul mood.
The DAK heavy machine gun unit leapt out of their Krupps trucks and set up their weapons, intent on stopping the "Tommies" from escaping. As Smythe-Clyde’s team began turning their vehicles around to make good their escape, the DAK HMG teams opened fire, destroying every truck in Smythe Clyde’s team. Two men ran towards his jeep as he began to accelerate away from the killing zone, he nudged “Jock”, who slewed ‘round, braking and accelerating, then braking again as he neared the survivors. The two troopers jumped on board as “Jock” stood on the gas pedal, pumped the clutch and sent the jeep careening towards the other LRDG team’s location.
As they drove, the soldiers could not take time to reflect on their grievous losses, instead focusing on getting clear of the area, hoping to fade into the desert as dusk approached.
A rumbling in the distance announced the approach of another enemy unit. Drivers pushed their machines to the limits as they negotiated the unfriendly, yet familiar desert terrain.
Ahead of the escaping LRDG, a DAK Panzergrenadier platoon leapt out of their trucks and hustled into position, hoping to block the oncoming juggernaut with a wall of lethal lead.
The LRDG teams approached a route they had reconnoitered earlier around a patch of nearly impassable marsh, filled soft sand, when a sharp-eyed gunner spotted the Panzergrenadiers and opened fire. At nearly the same instance, every gunner on the remaining trucks and jeeps sent a fiery hail of tracer-laden machine gun fire into the scrambling grenadiers. Bullets struck flesh and bone with merciless abandon.
As they eased past the marshy area, they could hear the cries of the wounded and dying. There was no return fire. Smythe-Clyde allowed himself the slightest grin, hoping that this encounter was a portent of their impending escape.
The last gleam of the desert sun disappeared as the survivors pushed past the salt marsh and continued towards a wadi, which they hoped would shield them from enemy eyes and retribution.
As darkness deepened, the teams were forced to slow their vehicles, for fear of becoming stuck or running into an enemy position. Smythe-Clyde and his comrades pushed on, relying on the cover of darkness and what speed they could maintain to cover their escape. He could just make out the entrance to the wadi they sought, slightly illuminated by the rising moon. If only their luck would hold a bit longer! They were in sight of safety!
Suddenly another sound issued from the night. Again, sounds of engines, but this time mixed with the unmistakable sounds of tracks clanking across the desert floor.
Smythe-Clyde took a deep breath and said a quick gallows humor prayer,”For what we are about to receive, we give thee thanks!”
Two SdKfz-231 armored cars appeared like ghosts out of the darkness. They opened fire on the escaping LRDG teams, missing all but one truck. The team from the stricken Chevy leapt to safety, climbing aboard another vehicle.
One of the “acht-rad”, or eight-wheeled armored cars was sitting directly in the entrance of the wadi, nearly blocking the escape route. Engines roared as the commander saw their only hope for escape slipping away. He shouted his command, “Get past ‘em, go, go, go!! Into the wadi, move it!.”
The other armored car was on their right hand side, outside the wadi. If they were quick enough, and lucky with their shots, they might be able to bail the crew of the one armored car out, and dodge the fire of the second by entering the wadi.
Smythe-Clyde ignored the command to enter the wadi, instead ordering “Jock” to slide past the second armored car while it was pre-occupied with the other team.
As he glanced back, he could just make out the flashes of fire from HMGs. He wondered if it were the same lot that had killed most of his team. To their side, he could see sporadic fire, apparently from another panzergrenadier platoon.
The other LRDG team commander and his trucks entered the wadi and raked the side of the armored car, unfortunately to little effect.
Then, with a lurch, Smythe-Clyde’s jeep came to a bone-jarring halt and burst into flames. He and “Jock” were both thrown from the vehicle. In the flames, he could just make out the team he and “Jock” had rescued, apparently dead from machine gun or cannon fire. Smythe-Clyde and “Jock” leaped to their feet and ran onward, hoping to escape in the darkness.
Inside the wadi the other LRDG team’s luck ran out. With their vehicles destroyed by HMG and 20mm cannon fire, three surviving teams attempted to assault the armored car in the wadi. A series of rushes and assaults using sticky-bombs failed to produce results, and the return fire from the armored car killed the remaining men.
The clank of tank treads on desert track grew noticeably louder, and then ominously stopped. “Jock” and Smyth-Clyde looked at each other and slowly stood, throwing their weapons and Arabic headgear to the ground. Ahead of them, five Panzer Mark III “Specials” loomed, all guns trained on the two survivors. Behind them, the turret from the armored car swung around to cover them. A hatch opened in the lead Panzer, and the tank commander climbed out, motioning with a raised MP-40 for the pair to approach.
As they walked cautiously up to the Hauptmann, they heard in surprisingly clear and nearly unaccented English, “Welcome into the “bag” Tommy. Cigarette?”
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
The Greening of Canis Wolfborne
In an earlier post, I mentioned that I had happily acquired the new Games Workshop model, Canis Wolfborn for my Space Wolves Warhammer 40K army.
I was so excited by this acquisition that, although I was completely awash in pre-convention painting projects, I took time to clean the model and put him together.
I will reiterate that I have never seen such an imposing hunk of metal designed for the tabletop! Canis is a "mere" Space Marine, his size alone is inconsequential - unless compared to a "mere" mortal! However, his mount, the cybernetically enhanced Thunder Wolf, Fangir is another story altogether.
I have not done actual measurements so cannot provide an accurate size for the model; let's just say it's really big!
Unfortunately, when I built Canis and Fangir, I was out of "green stuff" modeling putty and could not fill the cracks left between larger bits.
I finally got some green stuff and went to work on Fangir - and here are a couple of photos showing the results.
Fangir and his rider, from the front
Looking down at Fangirs' tail end
As I worked with the model, it became apparent that the spaces left between Canis' arms and his torso did not require putty. However, poor Fangir had a few spots that needed a bit of help.
I mushed up the yellow and blue parts of the green stuff, squished it around till it was nicely blended, then rolled it out in long strips that would nearly fit into the crevices. Using a dental pick, I pressed the green stuff into the cracks, and poked it into a similar appearance and texture as his fur.
I also learned a bit about photography while getting the shots for this posting; Note to budding miniatures photographers - when using the Super Macro setting on your camera, using a flash will leave a large black shadow in the shape of your lens! DOH!
I have begun the carbonite freezing process... umm.... I mean the priming process, and hope to begin painting Fangir and his pet space marine soon!
I was so excited by this acquisition that, although I was completely awash in pre-convention painting projects, I took time to clean the model and put him together.
I will reiterate that I have never seen such an imposing hunk of metal designed for the tabletop! Canis is a "mere" Space Marine, his size alone is inconsequential - unless compared to a "mere" mortal! However, his mount, the cybernetically enhanced Thunder Wolf, Fangir is another story altogether.
I have not done actual measurements so cannot provide an accurate size for the model; let's just say it's really big!
Unfortunately, when I built Canis and Fangir, I was out of "green stuff" modeling putty and could not fill the cracks left between larger bits.
I finally got some green stuff and went to work on Fangir - and here are a couple of photos showing the results.
Fangir and his rider, from the front
Looking down at Fangirs' tail end
As I worked with the model, it became apparent that the spaces left between Canis' arms and his torso did not require putty. However, poor Fangir had a few spots that needed a bit of help.
I mushed up the yellow and blue parts of the green stuff, squished it around till it was nicely blended, then rolled it out in long strips that would nearly fit into the crevices. Using a dental pick, I pressed the green stuff into the cracks, and poked it into a similar appearance and texture as his fur.
I also learned a bit about photography while getting the shots for this posting; Note to budding miniatures photographers - when using the Super Macro setting on your camera, using a flash will leave a large black shadow in the shape of your lens! DOH!
I have begun the carbonite freezing process... umm.... I mean the priming process, and hope to begin painting Fangir and his pet space marine soon!
Tuesday, November 03, 2009
Alternative Paints for Larger Projects
There are two groups of friends that I game with; Bwana Bill, his son, Karl the MekMeister, and a few other friends, and Consul Scipio, his son, the Black Knight, and other assorted friends.
So far these two groups have been on relatively divergent paths gaming-wise. Lately, as I have mentioned, both groups are now focused on battles in World War II, in the North African desert.
As our little groups begin to blend interests, we are finding more and more common ground in the hobby.
We are pretty much involved in 15mm and in 25mm models and figures.
When painting smaller figures, many of us have found the Vallejo "Model Color" to be accurate, and quite sufficient of portion to do the job.
However, we are finding that using those little eye-dropper bottles can become quite expensive, when painting larger figures and models - especially armored vehicles!
As the ladies in our lives lead us about on shopping tours, we usually keep a weather eye out for anything that may be useful in wargaming. My wife loves to visit Michaels hobby stores, both for supplies for her own hobby interests, and to obtain supplies for school projects. I like Michaels too! Pssst! Wargamers secret: In the Seasonal Decorations section you can find trees that are extremely useful for 25mm gaming - and sometimes walls or entire houses!
In the paint section, I have discovered Apple Barrel, and in particular, one color that works very nicely for German WWII desert vehicles and equipment! The color is "Country Tan". I have used this color in the past for painting WWI Australian troops - and it works a charm!
Our own Bwana Bill has also discovered a color that can replace the more expensive, smaller bottles of acrylic paint: Americana "Desert Sand" - how appropriate!?
These paints, both the Plaid and Americana, usually cost between $1.00 and $2.00 U.S.
So as the economies of Nation's round the world continue to mimic the last movement of the SS Titanic, and our wargaming budgets dwindle, we encourage our loyal readers to examine less expensive alternatives for paints, flocking, scratch building materials, and perhaps even models! And do share what you find here, and we'll help you spread the word!
So far these two groups have been on relatively divergent paths gaming-wise. Lately, as I have mentioned, both groups are now focused on battles in World War II, in the North African desert.
As our little groups begin to blend interests, we are finding more and more common ground in the hobby.
We are pretty much involved in 15mm and in 25mm models and figures.
When painting smaller figures, many of us have found the Vallejo "Model Color" to be accurate, and quite sufficient of portion to do the job.
However, we are finding that using those little eye-dropper bottles can become quite expensive, when painting larger figures and models - especially armored vehicles!
As the ladies in our lives lead us about on shopping tours, we usually keep a weather eye out for anything that may be useful in wargaming. My wife loves to visit Michaels hobby stores, both for supplies for her own hobby interests, and to obtain supplies for school projects. I like Michaels too! Pssst! Wargamers secret: In the Seasonal Decorations section you can find trees that are extremely useful for 25mm gaming - and sometimes walls or entire houses!
In the paint section, I have discovered Apple Barrel, and in particular, one color that works very nicely for German WWII desert vehicles and equipment! The color is "Country Tan". I have used this color in the past for painting WWI Australian troops - and it works a charm!
Our own Bwana Bill has also discovered a color that can replace the more expensive, smaller bottles of acrylic paint: Americana "Desert Sand" - how appropriate!?
These paints, both the Plaid and Americana, usually cost between $1.00 and $2.00 U.S.
So as the economies of Nation's round the world continue to mimic the last movement of the SS Titanic, and our wargaming budgets dwindle, we encourage our loyal readers to examine less expensive alternatives for paints, flocking, scratch building materials, and perhaps even models! And do share what you find here, and we'll help you spread the word!
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Love and Hate
Grab a wineglass and have a seat, we're about to have some whine!
I love my Battle Front Minis - they are usually very clean, well built, well considered models that go together without TOO much difficulty, and look really nice on the tabletop. The "Six-Pounder Portee" - a mid-war model of a British six pound anti-tank gun mounted on the back of a truck (Portee), is one that I have to say I'm a bit frustrated with.
Imagine the scene: less than a week till Fall In (the HMGS East convention in Gettysburg, PA), five different armies at two different scales scattered across the table in my chaoserrr war room, and I'm painting as fast as I possibly can.
I start the final coat, drybrushing and highlighting on my six pounder portees - and BAM! I drop one.
For starters, this model is a bit tricky to put together. Kudos to Battle Front for putting a "how to put it together" guide on their site for this model.
The problem lies with the ammunition rack on the back of the truck. There are four posts that this box is supposed to sit on, and it doesn't like going together. oh well! This is overcome with super glue and patience. Ta-da! A lovely model when complete.
Then the drop.
No, it can't drop on a nice fluffy figures case tray that is lying nearby. Neither does it fall to the slightly less fluffy stack of magazines on the other side. Noooooooo. It falls directly into the Dremel case on the floor, bashing itself to pieces on drill bits and sundry drill attachments and other cruft.
I wince in pain. Mostly cuz I think I broke my toe falling down the stairs, but also because I recall that this model is tricky to put back together. I resolutely begin picking up the pieces and reach for my super glue.
To add insult to injury, after I recover the bits and begin ever so patiently applying super glue to the little bits needed to put the pillars for the ammo box back into place - I drop the main bit. Off it goes into the black hole that is the floor of my dungeon, never to be seen again.
That's the "hate" part. I hate dropping models when they are nearly complete. Considering I slipped and fell down my stairs (caught myself, but hit a few!) this morning, I guess I should just have called it a day for anything requiring concentration.
The love part comes now, so sit back, relax and sip your whine! :-)
"Green Stuff" is your friend.
After searching for twenty minutes or longer, and basically cleaning the floor with my hands, I settled down to work with "Green Stuff", or two part modeling clay. It's also known as Kneadatite Epoxy Modeling Putty.
Take a bit of blue and a bit of the yellow portions and mash them together, like making a mud pie as a child. Keep water nearby and a sculpting tool of some sort. Although an X-Acto knife will work, there are hazards involved, especially if you're clumsy like me!
After mushing the yellow and blue bits together, as any child can tell you, you have green mush! The resultant mix is somewhat sticky - which allows you to stick it onto models where it is needed. However, that stickiness can also work against you. This is where the water comes in. Wet your fingers (the ones you are touching the green stuff with!) to keep it from sticking to them. Also, dip your sculpting tool in water to allow it to slide across the surface of the putty.
Apply the green stuff to the spot you need to fix, massage it gently with your fingers and sculpting tool. If you have a tricky thing (like the brace for an ammo box on a six pounder portee!), you may find that you need to form the green stuff as close as possible to the desired shape, and then come back later to trim off excess.
The image below was taken with my "Crackberry" phone, therefore the detail is not as clear as it should be; however, I hope you can see enough to get the point.
So remember folks, let's be careful out there!
I love my Battle Front Minis - they are usually very clean, well built, well considered models that go together without TOO much difficulty, and look really nice on the tabletop. The "Six-Pounder Portee" - a mid-war model of a British six pound anti-tank gun mounted on the back of a truck (Portee), is one that I have to say I'm a bit frustrated with.
Imagine the scene: less than a week till Fall In (the HMGS East convention in Gettysburg, PA), five different armies at two different scales scattered across the table in my chaoserrr war room, and I'm painting as fast as I possibly can.
I start the final coat, drybrushing and highlighting on my six pounder portees - and BAM! I drop one.
For starters, this model is a bit tricky to put together. Kudos to Battle Front for putting a "how to put it together" guide on their site for this model.
The problem lies with the ammunition rack on the back of the truck. There are four posts that this box is supposed to sit on, and it doesn't like going together. oh well! This is overcome with super glue and patience. Ta-da! A lovely model when complete.
Then the drop.
No, it can't drop on a nice fluffy figures case tray that is lying nearby. Neither does it fall to the slightly less fluffy stack of magazines on the other side. Noooooooo. It falls directly into the Dremel case on the floor, bashing itself to pieces on drill bits and sundry drill attachments and other cruft.
I wince in pain. Mostly cuz I think I broke my toe falling down the stairs, but also because I recall that this model is tricky to put back together. I resolutely begin picking up the pieces and reach for my super glue.
To add insult to injury, after I recover the bits and begin ever so patiently applying super glue to the little bits needed to put the pillars for the ammo box back into place - I drop the main bit. Off it goes into the black hole that is the floor of my dungeon, never to be seen again.
That's the "hate" part. I hate dropping models when they are nearly complete. Considering I slipped and fell down my stairs (caught myself, but hit a few!) this morning, I guess I should just have called it a day for anything requiring concentration.
The love part comes now, so sit back, relax and sip your whine! :-)
"Green Stuff" is your friend.
After searching for twenty minutes or longer, and basically cleaning the floor with my hands, I settled down to work with "Green Stuff", or two part modeling clay. It's also known as Kneadatite Epoxy Modeling Putty.
Take a bit of blue and a bit of the yellow portions and mash them together, like making a mud pie as a child. Keep water nearby and a sculpting tool of some sort. Although an X-Acto knife will work, there are hazards involved, especially if you're clumsy like me!
After mushing the yellow and blue bits together, as any child can tell you, you have green mush! The resultant mix is somewhat sticky - which allows you to stick it onto models where it is needed. However, that stickiness can also work against you. This is where the water comes in. Wet your fingers (the ones you are touching the green stuff with!) to keep it from sticking to them. Also, dip your sculpting tool in water to allow it to slide across the surface of the putty.
Apply the green stuff to the spot you need to fix, massage it gently with your fingers and sculpting tool. If you have a tricky thing (like the brace for an ammo box on a six pounder portee!), you may find that you need to form the green stuff as close as possible to the desired shape, and then come back later to trim off excess.
The image below was taken with my "Crackberry" phone, therefore the detail is not as clear as it should be; however, I hope you can see enough to get the point.
So remember folks, let's be careful out there!
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
LRDG Battle Report over at "What Would Patton Do? Blog
I don't mean to drive any of our loyal readers away; however, one of our wargaming associates has posted a truly unique "batrep" of his Long Range Desert Group's first battle. Head over to "What Would Patton Do?" blog and read "L Patrol pt 1."
Fall-In Preparations
In the dark shadows of the nether regions of the Castle Keith, I am laboring intently, deep in the dank dungeon that is my War Room.
I am currently working on some additional troops for my 28mm World War II (Disposable Heroes, a Coffin for Seven Brothers - DHC7B) German SS and American Paratroopers, because I intend on running a "pick up game" at Fall-In. The scenario is called "Blood in the Snow". It is a meeting engagement between elite forces at a remote farm manor house during the Bastogne encirclement.
I'm also working on British WWII tanks (Honeys and Crusaders) and infantry for my 15mm Flames of War army. I'm applying paint to my Italian tanks, infantry, and artillery, trying to top off that army too!
Just to confuse matters, since I obviously don't have enough to paint, I'm working on my Late War Gross Deutschland Panzer Kompanie. Basically I'm herding cats, but thankfully the Pioneers are helping! ;-)
If that isn't enough, I'm also touching up various bits and bobs to sell at the Saturday morning Flea Market. I'll also be bringing, by special request, a small package of very special fleas! Can't get enough of those!
If any of our loyal readers are headed to Fall-In, look for us at a gaming table covered with snow, or sand, or grass, or...
I am currently working on some additional troops for my 28mm World War II (Disposable Heroes, a Coffin for Seven Brothers - DHC7B) German SS and American Paratroopers, because I intend on running a "pick up game" at Fall-In. The scenario is called "Blood in the Snow". It is a meeting engagement between elite forces at a remote farm manor house during the Bastogne encirclement.
I'm also working on British WWII tanks (Honeys and Crusaders) and infantry for my 15mm Flames of War army. I'm applying paint to my Italian tanks, infantry, and artillery, trying to top off that army too!
Just to confuse matters, since I obviously don't have enough to paint, I'm working on my Late War Gross Deutschland Panzer Kompanie. Basically I'm herding cats, but thankfully the Pioneers are helping! ;-)
If that isn't enough, I'm also touching up various bits and bobs to sell at the Saturday morning Flea Market. I'll also be bringing, by special request, a small package of very special fleas! Can't get enough of those!
If any of our loyal readers are headed to Fall-In, look for us at a gaming table covered with snow, or sand, or grass, or...
Friday, October 16, 2009
First DAK
As Bwana Bill, Consul Scipio, KarlMek, BlackKnight, and I all prepare to head into the desert again in various scales, I was inspired to finish off a Deutsches Afrikakorps (DAK)Heavy Machine Gun and crew.
The figures are by Battle Honours - does anyone know if they are still in business? I see figures still for sale at www.oldglory15s.com, however, I can't seem to find a Battle Honours homepage.
Anyway, here are the first of my DAK: Enjoy!
The figures are by Battle Honours - does anyone know if they are still in business? I see figures still for sale at www.oldglory15s.com, however, I can't seem to find a Battle Honours homepage.
Anyway, here are the first of my DAK: Enjoy!
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
U.S. Army Enters the Mediterranean!
Bwana Bill and I have been discussing getting back into Flames of War (FoW) for some time now, so we put lead on the table and made it happen!
Bwana is used to playing his Deutsch Afrika Korp (DAK); however, for our return to the desert after nearly three years, Bwana ran the game and assisted his son in playing, while running his all new, fresh off the table U.S. Army Tank Company!
Two platoons of Sherman tanks, an infantry platoon, a Company Command platoon in Sherman tanks, and a platoon of tank hunters - M-10 tank destroyers made up the U.S. Tank Company.
On the German side were the following platoons; Company Command in Panzer Mk IVs (x2), two platoons of Panzer III (with the long barreled 50cm gun - 3 shots per turn if they don't move!) and a platoon of armored Panzergrenadiers.
This appears to represent two fairly evenly matched opposing teams; however, there are benefits and detractors each opponent had to deal with.
After a rousing rehash of the rules (did I fail to mention that it's been nearly three years since we've played FoW?) we placed our units on the table and prepared to duel.
On the first turn, due to the special rules of the scenario we were playing, our units had effectively moved - so could only shoot at reduced rate of fire.
The Germans started the game; my first time running DAK, so I was anxious about my ability to run the army properly. However, this was offset by the fact that Bwana Bill and his son had not fielded an 'Ami' army before!
I rolled to dig in my infantry on one objective - and failed. Since they didn't move or shoot, they were considered concealed and gone to ground.
A few shots at long range from the 50cm guns and the 75s of the Panzer platoons and the Company Command team resulted in one American tank bailed out, one in flames and the 2IC tank(the Executive Officer or 2nd in command)in flames.
First blood to the DAK veterans!
American 2IC tank in flames
On their turn, the Americans chose to move closer to the Panzers with one tank platoon, and wisely elected to place their surviving Company Command tank behind a building. A leaderless company usually results in an epic fail!
Maneuvering deftly up a wadi, the Americans closed the distance and opened fire on the Panzers. The results were one Panzer III bailed and one burning.
On the other half of the table, the M-10 Tank Destroyers also closed the range and fired into the flank of the first DAK Panzer platoon, bailing one and killing another.
The American infantry moved out of their vehicles into buildings on their side of the table and consolidated their positions.
Turn two:
I rolled to dig in my infantry on one objective - and failed.
Having forgotten my Stormtrooper move at the end of my turn, I decided to stay where I was and slug it out with the Sherman tanks. 2nd platoon of Panzers opened fire on the Shermans at range, killing two.
1st platoon lit up the second Sherman platoon, killing two tanks, and also took a "just for kicks" shot at an American halftrack in the open, missing miserably.
I succeeded in remembering my Stormtrooper move, and rolled successfully for two platoons to move, and moved them four inches - one towards the enemy, one away.
The Americans moved their 1st tank platoon towards the objective guarded by the DAK Panzergrenadieres. The half tracks, free of troops but armed with machine guns, moved towards the hapless infantry this turn as well.
The survivors of the American 2nd tank platoon fired on the Panzer IVs of the Company Command team - knocking out the German 2IC. The American Commander, peeking out from behind the building fired his rounds into the panzers, with little effect.
The Americans maneuver aggressively
The M-10s, now in range, fired at long range, and knocked out a Panzer III of 2nd platoon, on the German left flank. Between the M-10s and the survivors of the American 1st tank platoon, the German 2nd Panzer platoon lost another tank, and two more bailed.
Turn three:
I rolled to dig in my infantry on one objective - and failed.
I rolled to get my tank crews that were bailed out back into their vehicles. One failed. The other crew jumped in and prepared to resume the battle.
Since the Americans were now in range of the "doorknocker" 37mm gun on the infantry command half track, it fired two rounds - hitting once, and true to form, the shot bounced off.
Did I mention my infantry failed to dig in, on three tries???
2nd Panzer Platoon fired at the American 1st platoon, killing another tank and bailing one other, leaving only the platoon command tank fully operational.
1st Platoon and the Company Commander chose to shoot at the survivors of the American 2nd tank platoon, and destroyed it nicely. One unit dead!
The Americans rolled to get their tank crews back in the fight, and succeeded.
The Americans returned fire from the M-10s, bailing three of the remaining Panzers in 1st Panzer platoon, and killing one.
1st Tank platoon charged up to the (not) dug in Panzergrenadiers, alongside four half tracks. The armored juggernaut lashed out with machine gun fire, pinning the infantry thus reducing their "defensive fire" to one shot per section, vice the normal three shots. The German defensive fire managed to knock out one American half track.
After killing one section with the MG fire, and nicely pinning them, the tanks and tracks charged into assault. They rolled, I rolled, they rolled, and the infantry was dead. Poor guys never had a chance against tanks, all unsupported like that! However, the German half tracks remained on the objective, thus contesting it.
Turn four:
I rolled to dig in my infantry on one objective - and failed. Oops - hehehe! Never mind, they were dead at this point.
At this point I march moved the Company Commander towards an unguarded American objective. He closed to about eight inches.
On the American turn, Bwana Bill and son attempted to consolidate their position on the German objective by killing all the remaining tracks. They accomplished this without too much trouble - half tracks against tanks aren't much of a match! With those tanks and half tracks on my objective, I needed to pry them off or get a vehicle there to contest it, before the start of their next turn.
The American Commander made a run for the objective, which was about to be contested by the German Commander, and fired a shot at the German Command tank, but missed. Nearly an epic fail; however, he now contested the objective, and on my turn I would need to blast him off the objective to win it, and perhaps the game.
The M-10s fired at the German 2nd tank platoon, managing to bail three tanks - leaving the platoon combat ineffective.
Turn five:
I rolled to get my three bailed crews back into their vehicles, succeeding on two, but the third crew were certain their vehicle was about to brew up, and stayed cowering beside it. Rommel would have been able to inspire them - Rommel I'm not!
The Panzer IV Company Command tank fired at full Rate of Fire (RoF) at the American company commander, penetrating his armor and cooking off his ammo. A leaderless company is not a good thing.
I charged one tank of 2nd tank platoon up onto the recently captured objective, placing its barrel almost onto the rear of one of the surviving American tanks. The remainder of the platoon (the ones that were in the battle!) and 1st tank platoon then opened fire on the Sherman tanks and the two half tracks. Results, all in flames - you gotta love those long barreled 50cm guns, firing 3 rounds each! I do recall the many games when my Brits were on the receiving end of that fusillade, and it is unpleasant seeing that many die rolled against your vehicles!
At the bottom of turn five, I rolled for Stormtrooper moves for each of my units, and all three got it. I moved closer to the objective to insure the Americans wouldn't attempt to retake it with the M-10s, and eased the Company Command tank up next to the burning American CO's tank.
At this point I controlled one objective, and the Americans were without their CO.
As Bwana Bill and his son began their turn, they realized they needed to take a morale check; however, without a CO, there is no morale check. Game, set, and match.
A win for the doomed DAK, and a good first mission for the fresh faced Americans!
Bwana is used to playing his Deutsch Afrika Korp (DAK); however, for our return to the desert after nearly three years, Bwana ran the game and assisted his son in playing, while running his all new, fresh off the table U.S. Army Tank Company!
Two platoons of Sherman tanks, an infantry platoon, a Company Command platoon in Sherman tanks, and a platoon of tank hunters - M-10 tank destroyers made up the U.S. Tank Company.
On the German side were the following platoons; Company Command in Panzer Mk IVs (x2), two platoons of Panzer III (with the long barreled 50cm gun - 3 shots per turn if they don't move!) and a platoon of armored Panzergrenadiers.
This appears to represent two fairly evenly matched opposing teams; however, there are benefits and detractors each opponent had to deal with.
After a rousing rehash of the rules (did I fail to mention that it's been nearly three years since we've played FoW?) we placed our units on the table and prepared to duel.
On the first turn, due to the special rules of the scenario we were playing, our units had effectively moved - so could only shoot at reduced rate of fire.
The Germans started the game; my first time running DAK, so I was anxious about my ability to run the army properly. However, this was offset by the fact that Bwana Bill and his son had not fielded an 'Ami' army before!
I rolled to dig in my infantry on one objective - and failed. Since they didn't move or shoot, they were considered concealed and gone to ground.
A few shots at long range from the 50cm guns and the 75s of the Panzer platoons and the Company Command team resulted in one American tank bailed out, one in flames and the 2IC tank(the Executive Officer or 2nd in command)in flames.
First blood to the DAK veterans!
American 2IC tank in flames
On their turn, the Americans chose to move closer to the Panzers with one tank platoon, and wisely elected to place their surviving Company Command tank behind a building. A leaderless company usually results in an epic fail!
Maneuvering deftly up a wadi, the Americans closed the distance and opened fire on the Panzers. The results were one Panzer III bailed and one burning.
On the other half of the table, the M-10 Tank Destroyers also closed the range and fired into the flank of the first DAK Panzer platoon, bailing one and killing another.
The American infantry moved out of their vehicles into buildings on their side of the table and consolidated their positions.
Turn two:
I rolled to dig in my infantry on one objective - and failed.
Having forgotten my Stormtrooper move at the end of my turn, I decided to stay where I was and slug it out with the Sherman tanks. 2nd platoon of Panzers opened fire on the Shermans at range, killing two.
1st platoon lit up the second Sherman platoon, killing two tanks, and also took a "just for kicks" shot at an American halftrack in the open, missing miserably.
I succeeded in remembering my Stormtrooper move, and rolled successfully for two platoons to move, and moved them four inches - one towards the enemy, one away.
The Americans moved their 1st tank platoon towards the objective guarded by the DAK Panzergrenadieres. The half tracks, free of troops but armed with machine guns, moved towards the hapless infantry this turn as well.
The survivors of the American 2nd tank platoon fired on the Panzer IVs of the Company Command team - knocking out the German 2IC. The American Commander, peeking out from behind the building fired his rounds into the panzers, with little effect.
The Americans maneuver aggressively
The M-10s, now in range, fired at long range, and knocked out a Panzer III of 2nd platoon, on the German left flank. Between the M-10s and the survivors of the American 1st tank platoon, the German 2nd Panzer platoon lost another tank, and two more bailed.
Turn three:
I rolled to dig in my infantry on one objective - and failed.
I rolled to get my tank crews that were bailed out back into their vehicles. One failed. The other crew jumped in and prepared to resume the battle.
Since the Americans were now in range of the "doorknocker" 37mm gun on the infantry command half track, it fired two rounds - hitting once, and true to form, the shot bounced off.
Did I mention my infantry failed to dig in, on three tries???
2nd Panzer Platoon fired at the American 1st platoon, killing another tank and bailing one other, leaving only the platoon command tank fully operational.
1st Platoon and the Company Commander chose to shoot at the survivors of the American 2nd tank platoon, and destroyed it nicely. One unit dead!
The Americans rolled to get their tank crews back in the fight, and succeeded.
The Americans returned fire from the M-10s, bailing three of the remaining Panzers in 1st Panzer platoon, and killing one.
1st Tank platoon charged up to the (not) dug in Panzergrenadiers, alongside four half tracks. The armored juggernaut lashed out with machine gun fire, pinning the infantry thus reducing their "defensive fire" to one shot per section, vice the normal three shots. The German defensive fire managed to knock out one American half track.
After killing one section with the MG fire, and nicely pinning them, the tanks and tracks charged into assault. They rolled, I rolled, they rolled, and the infantry was dead. Poor guys never had a chance against tanks, all unsupported like that! However, the German half tracks remained on the objective, thus contesting it.
Turn four:
I rolled to dig in my infantry on one objective - and failed. Oops - hehehe! Never mind, they were dead at this point.
At this point I march moved the Company Commander towards an unguarded American objective. He closed to about eight inches.
On the American turn, Bwana Bill and son attempted to consolidate their position on the German objective by killing all the remaining tracks. They accomplished this without too much trouble - half tracks against tanks aren't much of a match! With those tanks and half tracks on my objective, I needed to pry them off or get a vehicle there to contest it, before the start of their next turn.
The American Commander made a run for the objective, which was about to be contested by the German Commander, and fired a shot at the German Command tank, but missed. Nearly an epic fail; however, he now contested the objective, and on my turn I would need to blast him off the objective to win it, and perhaps the game.
The M-10s fired at the German 2nd tank platoon, managing to bail three tanks - leaving the platoon combat ineffective.
Turn five:
I rolled to get my three bailed crews back into their vehicles, succeeding on two, but the third crew were certain their vehicle was about to brew up, and stayed cowering beside it. Rommel would have been able to inspire them - Rommel I'm not!
The Panzer IV Company Command tank fired at full Rate of Fire (RoF) at the American company commander, penetrating his armor and cooking off his ammo. A leaderless company is not a good thing.
I charged one tank of 2nd tank platoon up onto the recently captured objective, placing its barrel almost onto the rear of one of the surviving American tanks. The remainder of the platoon (the ones that were in the battle!) and 1st tank platoon then opened fire on the Sherman tanks and the two half tracks. Results, all in flames - you gotta love those long barreled 50cm guns, firing 3 rounds each! I do recall the many games when my Brits were on the receiving end of that fusillade, and it is unpleasant seeing that many die rolled against your vehicles!
At the bottom of turn five, I rolled for Stormtrooper moves for each of my units, and all three got it. I moved closer to the objective to insure the Americans wouldn't attempt to retake it with the M-10s, and eased the Company Command tank up next to the burning American CO's tank.
At this point I controlled one objective, and the Americans were without their CO.
As Bwana Bill and his son began their turn, they realized they needed to take a morale check; however, without a CO, there is no morale check. Game, set, and match.
A win for the doomed DAK, and a good first mission for the fresh faced Americans!
Monday, March 09, 2009
Tools of the Trade – a Prelude to an Introduction to Painting
It was a very wise man who said, “Use the proper tool for the job.” Of course, he was most likely single and therefore able to buy those tools, without the oversight of CINCHouse (Commander in Chief House), which often results in conversations similar to the following:
Wargamer: “Oh!! I need this tool!!”
CINCHouse: “Why? You don’t use the tools you have.”
Wargamer: “I need this one for that special project!”
CINCHouse: “You haven’t finished the last (insert large number over 20 here) projects you’ve started. Finish those before you start a new one!”
Wargamer: ““But it’s on sale!”
CINCHouse: “And… this matters how? Buying another tool you’re not going to use, even if it’s on sale, is still a waste of money.”
And of course, in the end you don’t get the tool, try to make do with another tool you may have never used, and end up cutting off parts of the project, and perhaps your body, that you didn’t want to cut off.
In a perfect world, a guy could buy all the tools he needs to do the job right.
Since it’s far from a perfect world, we’ll make do with what we have, as best we can. However, there are some tools that, if you compromise quality, your project will suffer.
Paint brushes: This is the most important tool a wargamer will purchase. Skimping here WILL adversely affect the outcome of your figures.
Imagine having to pick hairs out of your paintjob as you go. This costs you in time taken to remedy a problem that could have been avoided, and costs you in a reduction in quality. Bad brushes make for bad paintjobs.
Be picky about your brushes. ‘Nuff said.
I use Reaper Brushes, almost exclusively. No, this is not an advertisement for Reaper – I just happen to like the brushes! They are good quality and are reasonably priced.
The average wargamer will need a broad range of sizes and shapes of brushes. For figures, you will need a very tiny brush to use for painting details, a medium brush for applying paint to small and medium areas, a larger brush for overall coverage of medium and large areas, and several sizes of stiff brushes for use in dry brushing.
For vehicles, I recommend the “Tank Brush” by Citadel. If you properly thin your paint, you can use the Tank Brush to paint a vehicle, without leaving brush marks, thus negating the need for expensive air brushes. (Not a knock against airbrushes!)
Soap, Water, and Paper Towels: No, I’m not going to tell you to wash behind your ears. Soap, water, and paper towels are essential items used to properly care for your brushes!
A bar of soap, such as Ivory or some other plain, square block of soap will work nicely. Any old dish will work to hold the water – just make sure it’s cleaned after each session, if possible – or soon thereafter!
The way this works is, you dip the brush in water and swish it around, then wipe it off on a paper towel. Then, after wetting the brush again, place it on the bar of soap and draw it towards you, rotating or spinning it slightly as you go. Then swish it around in the water and repeat until clean, periodically using paper towels to dry the brush off and remove excess paint-filled water.
Another technique, though perhaps not as economical, is to use surgical prep pads; cotton pads soaked with rubbing alcohol. These pads can be used in place of the soap to remove paint from a brush, or so I’ve been told!
It is critical to care for your brushes properly. Brushes will last longer, and be usable at a moment’s notice, if they are cleaned and stored carefully.
NEVER leave your brushes in the water dish for extended periods of time. Doing so will result in the paint being more difficult to remove, and the brush attaining a new, and likely undesirable, shape.
Artiste Palette: No, I’m not going all “artsy-fartsy” on you. A palette provides you with a place to thin or mix your paint, where it will not dry as fast or be absorbed. I use a glossy (that’s important!) square tile, such as is used for tiling floors or walls in bathrooms or kitchens. The glossy surface allows the paint to be mixed prior to use, and it cleans up easily. I use a putty knife and hot water to clean my palette when needed. There are other resources that can be used as a palette, such as a Styrofoam picnic plate – which, instead of cleaning, you simply throw it away.
Another, more environmentally friendly, item that works nicely is a Teflon painting mat. The one that I use, in addition to my "old style" ceramic tile, is called Slip Grip Mats. These mats are easily scraped clean after a painting session, and remain ready to use for some time to come! Bwana Bill bought some at a recent convention, and thinking of his old friend, decided to gift me one! I love it, and more importantly, my wife loves it too! That's especially important!
Water bowl: Folks, a word of warning here. Don’t use your nice china as a water dish for cleaning your brushes!! There are specially designed plastic dishes on the market that have a separator and places for brush storage. An inexpensive alternative is a “Cool Whip” bowl. I don’t recommend explaining to CINCHouse that you simply had to use the entire bowl of “Cool Whip” ‘cuz you needed the dish for your hobby. I can attest to the likelihood of this excuse resulting in a rough night in the doghouse.
Cleaning up: It is important to clean the water dish and palette regularly to avoid cross-color contamination and the introduction of dried paint chunks into your current project.
Clothes: If you own clothes that you would like to be able to wear in public, don’t wear them when painting. This does not mean that you should paint in the nude, but rather that you paint while wearing “scruffy” clothes, such as sweat pants and an older t-shirt. Even though many of the paints used today in the wargaming hobby are water soluble, they are readily absorbed by cloth, and are not easily removed.
Wargamer: “Oh!! I need this tool!!”
CINCHouse: “Why? You don’t use the tools you have.”
Wargamer: “I need this one for that special project!”
CINCHouse: “You haven’t finished the last (insert large number over 20 here) projects you’ve started. Finish those before you start a new one!”
Wargamer: ““But it’s on sale!”
CINCHouse: “And… this matters how? Buying another tool you’re not going to use, even if it’s on sale, is still a waste of money.”
And of course, in the end you don’t get the tool, try to make do with another tool you may have never used, and end up cutting off parts of the project, and perhaps your body, that you didn’t want to cut off.
In a perfect world, a guy could buy all the tools he needs to do the job right.
Since it’s far from a perfect world, we’ll make do with what we have, as best we can. However, there are some tools that, if you compromise quality, your project will suffer.
Paint brushes: This is the most important tool a wargamer will purchase. Skimping here WILL adversely affect the outcome of your figures.
Imagine having to pick hairs out of your paintjob as you go. This costs you in time taken to remedy a problem that could have been avoided, and costs you in a reduction in quality. Bad brushes make for bad paintjobs.
Be picky about your brushes. ‘Nuff said.
I use Reaper Brushes, almost exclusively. No, this is not an advertisement for Reaper – I just happen to like the brushes! They are good quality and are reasonably priced.
The average wargamer will need a broad range of sizes and shapes of brushes. For figures, you will need a very tiny brush to use for painting details, a medium brush for applying paint to small and medium areas, a larger brush for overall coverage of medium and large areas, and several sizes of stiff brushes for use in dry brushing.
For vehicles, I recommend the “Tank Brush” by Citadel. If you properly thin your paint, you can use the Tank Brush to paint a vehicle, without leaving brush marks, thus negating the need for expensive air brushes. (Not a knock against airbrushes!)
Soap, Water, and Paper Towels: No, I’m not going to tell you to wash behind your ears. Soap, water, and paper towels are essential items used to properly care for your brushes!
A bar of soap, such as Ivory or some other plain, square block of soap will work nicely. Any old dish will work to hold the water – just make sure it’s cleaned after each session, if possible – or soon thereafter!
The way this works is, you dip the brush in water and swish it around, then wipe it off on a paper towel. Then, after wetting the brush again, place it on the bar of soap and draw it towards you, rotating or spinning it slightly as you go. Then swish it around in the water and repeat until clean, periodically using paper towels to dry the brush off and remove excess paint-filled water.
Another technique, though perhaps not as economical, is to use surgical prep pads; cotton pads soaked with rubbing alcohol. These pads can be used in place of the soap to remove paint from a brush, or so I’ve been told!
It is critical to care for your brushes properly. Brushes will last longer, and be usable at a moment’s notice, if they are cleaned and stored carefully.
NEVER leave your brushes in the water dish for extended periods of time. Doing so will result in the paint being more difficult to remove, and the brush attaining a new, and likely undesirable, shape.
Artiste Palette: No, I’m not going all “artsy-fartsy” on you. A palette provides you with a place to thin or mix your paint, where it will not dry as fast or be absorbed. I use a glossy (that’s important!) square tile, such as is used for tiling floors or walls in bathrooms or kitchens. The glossy surface allows the paint to be mixed prior to use, and it cleans up easily. I use a putty knife and hot water to clean my palette when needed. There are other resources that can be used as a palette, such as a Styrofoam picnic plate – which, instead of cleaning, you simply throw it away.
Another, more environmentally friendly, item that works nicely is a Teflon painting mat. The one that I use, in addition to my "old style" ceramic tile, is called Slip Grip Mats. These mats are easily scraped clean after a painting session, and remain ready to use for some time to come! Bwana Bill bought some at a recent convention, and thinking of his old friend, decided to gift me one! I love it, and more importantly, my wife loves it too! That's especially important!
Water bowl: Folks, a word of warning here. Don’t use your nice china as a water dish for cleaning your brushes!! There are specially designed plastic dishes on the market that have a separator and places for brush storage. An inexpensive alternative is a “Cool Whip” bowl. I don’t recommend explaining to CINCHouse that you simply had to use the entire bowl of “Cool Whip” ‘cuz you needed the dish for your hobby. I can attest to the likelihood of this excuse resulting in a rough night in the doghouse.
Cleaning up: It is important to clean the water dish and palette regularly to avoid cross-color contamination and the introduction of dried paint chunks into your current project.
Clothes: If you own clothes that you would like to be able to wear in public, don’t wear them when painting. This does not mean that you should paint in the nude, but rather that you paint while wearing “scruffy” clothes, such as sweat pants and an older t-shirt. Even though many of the paints used today in the wargaming hobby are water soluble, they are readily absorbed by cloth, and are not easily removed.
Thursday, February 26, 2009
In the Beginning…. Part V
5. Priming: One of the most critical issues of our time in the wargaming community, an issue that is hotly debated in numerous venues, and has yet to be decided one way or the other, is whether to use black or white primer.
Since this blog is about wargaming topics and is written for wargamers, I will attempt to remain neutral. To choose sides in “The Great Black V.S. White Primer Debate™” would be irresponsible, and would likely alienate half of my intended audience
My view in “The Great Black V.S. White Primer Debate™” is that one should use whatever performs best for the type of model/figure one is working on!
However, the reality is that I find it easier to use black spray primer on all the figures/models I work on, and then use a brush-on white primer for areas that require significantly brighter or lighter color paint.
I have used white primer in the past, but don’t like the overall effect. My metal colors do not come through as nicely as they do against a black primer. Additionally, when the end model or figure I’m painting will be using darker colors or modern military drabs, the white primer lightens up the model too much for my taste.
The operative statement here is: Use whatever works best for your style of painting!
My style of painting relies on a lot of shading and shadow, and I find it easier to highlight up rather than darken down. Thus I choose to use black primer the majority of the time.
I realize that some individuals will accuse me of not being a “real wargamer” because I choose to use black primer. I must state for the record that there are plenty of folks in the “black primer” camp who make the same statement about those who use white primer, although I would not be one of those people! I would never make such a sophomoric and judgmental statement!
So, let’s not discuss the barbarians flinging fire at the gates of the civilized wargaming world, who suggest alternative primer colors such as gray or rust brown! I cannot, in good conscience, recommend the use of gray or rust brown primers, unless you are intent on the destruction of civilization as we know it! We won’t discuss it here, because this blog is for wargamers, and those who suggest using gray or rust brown primer simply aren’t real wargamers!
But seriously folks:
I used to use GW (Citadel) black primer for most applications; however, that is now impossible, since GW no longer makes black primer. They claim that their “Chaos Black” spray paint also works as a primer; however, it dries glossy, and does not work as I believe a primer should work, that is, covering the figure and providing paint with a surface on which to stick.
I now use Rustoleum black primer, although I have used rust, gray, and white primers too. Rustoleum has the advantages of actually being a primer, is produced by a large company and is less prone to “bad cans of paint”, and it’s pretty inexpensive.
Since this blog is about wargaming topics and is written for wargamers, I will attempt to remain neutral. To choose sides in “The Great Black V.S. White Primer Debate™” would be irresponsible, and would likely alienate half of my intended audience
My view in “The Great Black V.S. White Primer Debate™” is that one should use whatever performs best for the type of model/figure one is working on!
However, the reality is that I find it easier to use black spray primer on all the figures/models I work on, and then use a brush-on white primer for areas that require significantly brighter or lighter color paint.
I have used white primer in the past, but don’t like the overall effect. My metal colors do not come through as nicely as they do against a black primer. Additionally, when the end model or figure I’m painting will be using darker colors or modern military drabs, the white primer lightens up the model too much for my taste.
The operative statement here is: Use whatever works best for your style of painting!
My style of painting relies on a lot of shading and shadow, and I find it easier to highlight up rather than darken down. Thus I choose to use black primer the majority of the time.
I realize that some individuals will accuse me of not being a “real wargamer” because I choose to use black primer. I must state for the record that there are plenty of folks in the “black primer” camp who make the same statement about those who use white primer, although I would not be one of those people! I would never make such a sophomoric and judgmental statement!
So, let’s not discuss the barbarians flinging fire at the gates of the civilized wargaming world, who suggest alternative primer colors such as gray or rust brown! I cannot, in good conscience, recommend the use of gray or rust brown primers, unless you are intent on the destruction of civilization as we know it! We won’t discuss it here, because this blog is for wargamers, and those who suggest using gray or rust brown primer simply aren’t real wargamers!
But seriously folks:
I used to use GW (Citadel) black primer for most applications; however, that is now impossible, since GW no longer makes black primer. They claim that their “Chaos Black” spray paint also works as a primer; however, it dries glossy, and does not work as I believe a primer should work, that is, covering the figure and providing paint with a surface on which to stick.
I now use Rustoleum black primer, although I have used rust, gray, and white primers too. Rustoleum has the advantages of actually being a primer, is produced by a large company and is less prone to “bad cans of paint”, and it’s pretty inexpensive.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
In the Beginning…. Part III
3. The Base – for my 15mm figures I use the standard bases provided by the “Flames of War” gang, while I use whatever is available for my 25mm figures. I have used Games Workshop bases of all shapes and sizes, as well as bases manufactured by other companies. As long at the mold is clean, base selection should only be restricted by the rules you intend to play. The selection of inexpensive alternative bases will not affect the final appearance of your figures.
Although I did not mention metal bases, many historical gamers do make good use of inexpensive metal bases, which you can most likely find at your local game supply store!
Metal bases are very thin metal squares or rectangles of various sizes. The advantages to using these are that they are less expensive and sold in packs containing quite a few bases, and if you choose to use a magnetic figure carrying case, your figures can travel standing up, ready for battle!
Although I did not mention metal bases, many historical gamers do make good use of inexpensive metal bases, which you can most likely find at your local game supply store!
Metal bases are very thin metal squares or rectangles of various sizes. The advantages to using these are that they are less expensive and sold in packs containing quite a few bases, and if you choose to use a magnetic figure carrying case, your figures can travel standing up, ready for battle!
Friday, February 20, 2009
In the Beginning…. Part II
2. Cleaning – Some folks do a poor job at this critical stage, or skip it entirely. This results in a rough-looking figure that is not as appealing to the eye. Regardless of the level of painting skill you have, an improperly cleaned figure will result in a poorer quality paint job.
Most manufacturers recommend washing figures in warm, soapy water, to remove the “mold release” chemical from the figures. I always forget this stage – I wonder if any of our loyal readers can supply info as to why this step is or isn’t important! I have always felt that the scraping with an X-Acto™ knife or the filing with jewelers’ files would clean most of the “mold release” material off the figures.
As I stated above, I don’t wash my figures prior to cleaning or priming. Considering past experience, and reflecting on the number of times I’ve had to touch up figures or models that have scratched or chipped, it is entirely possible that my failure to wash the figures has contributed to a lowered resistance to scratching/chipping.
It is essential to remove as much flash as possible. This may require a combination of tools. I always have a set of jewelers’ files and an X-Acto™ knife on hand. The X-Acto™ knife allows me to scrape away larger elements of flash from figures, and to get into areas I may not be able to reach with the jewelers’ files. Always use care when working with these tools, as they are necessarily sharp and can inflict bodily harm to yourself or others nearby!
For plastic figures, I almost exclusively use the X-Acto™ knife, scraping carefully along the mold lines with the edge of the blade. For harder plastics, which several manufacturers are beginning to use, the use of jewelers’ files may be a viable option.
After removing the majority of the flash, tidy up with the jewelers’ files; you are attempting to remove any hint of flash or mold line. If you have a really bad gap or mold line on the figure (this is sometimes the case with larger models) use model putty or green stuff to level the seam.
Be careful not to remove too much detail! Over-filing can result in a loss of details – and if you are not familiar with the figures, you can sometimes mistake a key bit of detail for “flash” or a mold spot.
At times it may even become necessary to use a Dremel™ tool, or similar small, variable speed drill. From personal experience I can attest to the potential for damaging both the figures and the wielder when using these tools! Be careful!
One preparation that, in my humble opinion, enhances the final appearance of a figure requires the use of a Dremel™ tool or a small “pin vice” (a very small manual drill). I drill out the barrel of guns (particularly on Warhammer 40K figures!). I drill the barrel proper, and then the side-holes on the flash suppressors. When the figure is completed, the actual holes, rather than black paint lend an additional hint of realism!
Additionally, as a part of the cleaning process, I always keep a large flat file handy. This is the big, honking file that some folks use for auto repair or sharpening their battle-axes prior to a raid. I use the large file to clean the bottom of the bases on individual figures, and sometimes to thin the base down so that it doesn’t show so much under my “basing”.
I cannot emphasize how important it is to pay attention to detail at this stage, in order to have a nicer, more appealing figure when you pronounce the painting job to be "Finis!"
Most manufacturers recommend washing figures in warm, soapy water, to remove the “mold release” chemical from the figures. I always forget this stage – I wonder if any of our loyal readers can supply info as to why this step is or isn’t important! I have always felt that the scraping with an X-Acto™ knife or the filing with jewelers’ files would clean most of the “mold release” material off the figures.
As I stated above, I don’t wash my figures prior to cleaning or priming. Considering past experience, and reflecting on the number of times I’ve had to touch up figures or models that have scratched or chipped, it is entirely possible that my failure to wash the figures has contributed to a lowered resistance to scratching/chipping.
It is essential to remove as much flash as possible. This may require a combination of tools. I always have a set of jewelers’ files and an X-Acto™ knife on hand. The X-Acto™ knife allows me to scrape away larger elements of flash from figures, and to get into areas I may not be able to reach with the jewelers’ files. Always use care when working with these tools, as they are necessarily sharp and can inflict bodily harm to yourself or others nearby!
For plastic figures, I almost exclusively use the X-Acto™ knife, scraping carefully along the mold lines with the edge of the blade. For harder plastics, which several manufacturers are beginning to use, the use of jewelers’ files may be a viable option.
After removing the majority of the flash, tidy up with the jewelers’ files; you are attempting to remove any hint of flash or mold line. If you have a really bad gap or mold line on the figure (this is sometimes the case with larger models) use model putty or green stuff to level the seam.
Be careful not to remove too much detail! Over-filing can result in a loss of details – and if you are not familiar with the figures, you can sometimes mistake a key bit of detail for “flash” or a mold spot.
At times it may even become necessary to use a Dremel™ tool, or similar small, variable speed drill. From personal experience I can attest to the potential for damaging both the figures and the wielder when using these tools! Be careful!
One preparation that, in my humble opinion, enhances the final appearance of a figure requires the use of a Dremel™ tool or a small “pin vice” (a very small manual drill). I drill out the barrel of guns (particularly on Warhammer 40K figures!). I drill the barrel proper, and then the side-holes on the flash suppressors. When the figure is completed, the actual holes, rather than black paint lend an additional hint of realism!
Additionally, as a part of the cleaning process, I always keep a large flat file handy. This is the big, honking file that some folks use for auto repair or sharpening their battle-axes prior to a raid. I use the large file to clean the bottom of the bases on individual figures, and sometimes to thin the base down so that it doesn’t show so much under my “basing”.
I cannot emphasize how important it is to pay attention to detail at this stage, in order to have a nicer, more appealing figure when you pronounce the painting job to be "Finis!"
Friday, December 21, 2007
The (in)Famous Painting Table
Here are a few shots of what is on my painting table at the moment. I'm working on three different jobs for other folks that were due about five (yup!) years ago, plus trying to throw together some Space Wolves Space Marines for Warhammer 40K, Apocalypse!
Pardon the mess, it is, after all, a construction zone!
Pardon the mess, it is, after all, a construction zone!
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